For the majority of this trip, I discovered with great disappointment that most buildings have been changed again and again from their original state. I found these alterations in the structures also distorted my perception of how each place would have functioned in their representative time periods. Seeing the whitewashed walls of King’s Chapel in Cambridge, the Victorian rooms within Warwick, and the bombed out remains of Coventry gave me thought that our predecessors had less value on historical significance than we do now; I felt bitter that I wasn’t seeing anything authentic. All of these notions were completely dispelled with our visit to York Minster this Wednesday.
I was standing underneath the York Minster, reading a plaque that said on my left was a Norman wall and on the right a medieval one, when I came to a new conclusion. The layers of earth from different historical periods—Roman, Norman, and Medieval—made me view the changes of York Minster and other buildings as more necessary and cohesive than obtrusive and mean. The first conquest of what is now Britain was by the Romans, who built a fort at this location. After they left, the Normans invaded in 1066, fought their way north, and established their religious building here shortly thereafter. Eventually it was transformed into the larger medieval cathedral that is York Minster as we seen it today. As each new settler came in, they demolished old buildings and built theirs literally on top of the ruins. There was no reason, at the time, why they shouldn’t—it was a prime location with foundations already laid. Looking down a well that showed the different layers, I might as well have been looking in a time capsule; yet, I realized that buildings in themselves do not have a “time period.” True, they were produced in a certain era and a certain style, but as they are affected and redesigned by changing cultural ideals, they represent the passage of time from their creation to the present. After we have made our own marks on history, our structures will be left behind for future generations to appreciate and alter.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Guest Lecture: British Higher Education
Our lecture on Tuesday from Dr. Taylor provided our group with an understanding of the historical and current system of higher education in Britain. There were some similarities to America’s colleges, but the differences were more significant. The principal contrast is the smaller tuition fees for English students. Up until 1998 higher education was free to students (and not to taxpayers), but lack of funds caused the yearly price of all universities to be set at £3000. This was shocking to us because we pay around $7,000 a year for tuition only at Western Kentucky University. It seems that in America universities are concerned with 1) Monetary gain, whether it is through student fees or alumni donations, 2) Prestige/Academic achievements 3) Sports teams. In Britain, they seem more focused on education or trade, depending on the school. Obviously though they value ranking and reputation as well—Oxbridge being the prime examples.
British universities, though this is a generalization, do not seem to be as concerned with enrollment numbers as American universities. This is probably because of the higher standards of admission at many schools and an already set number of spots. It was interesting to hear about how the grammar schools affected student’s ability to attend university or not. We see a prime example of lower standards but a focus on numbers at WKU: the extremely low admission requirements are a 2.0 grade point average or a 16 on the ACT. Aside from this making us one of the largest universities in the state, I feel that it lowers the value of the undergraduate degree. Another contrasting note was that British students are encouraged to attend university away from their hometown to experience another part of the country, whereas the individual American states, Kentucky in particular, want to retain as much of their educated population as possible. Other than these main differences, higher education in Britain and the States seems pretty similar.
British universities, though this is a generalization, do not seem to be as concerned with enrollment numbers as American universities. This is probably because of the higher standards of admission at many schools and an already set number of spots. It was interesting to hear about how the grammar schools affected student’s ability to attend university or not. We see a prime example of lower standards but a focus on numbers at WKU: the extremely low admission requirements are a 2.0 grade point average or a 16 on the ACT. Aside from this making us one of the largest universities in the state, I feel that it lowers the value of the undergraduate degree. Another contrasting note was that British students are encouraged to attend university away from their hometown to experience another part of the country, whereas the individual American states, Kentucky in particular, want to retain as much of their educated population as possible. Other than these main differences, higher education in Britain and the States seems pretty similar.
Stratford
I’ll start off my reflections on our visit to Stratford on a positive note. I learned that Shakespeare’s father’s occupation as a glove maker, among other trades, influenced Shakespeare to reference the trade many times in his works. The woman telling us this gave the example of a mention of a man’s beard as shaped like a glove maker’s knife. Only a person acquainted with the trade would know what this looked like; because unlike what you would expect, the knife is not long and pointed but it’s actually a circle. This bit of information made me realize that Shakespeare, however brilliant, too had to learn, and this gave him a more tangible, realistic relevance. After this trip, I also am now inspired to read more of Shakespeare’s plays. I have read a few tragedies, but I want to read the comedies, specifically A Midsummer Night’s Dream and As You Like It.
But it’s a sad day when the birthplace of the most magnificent poet and author in history, who has even shaped the English-speaking world as we know it, is more concerned with fashion shops and eateries than with the extraordinary merit of being Shakespeare’s hometown. Like most of us in our group, I too thought the doors after the first Shakespeare video were going to open upon a museum where we could learn in-depth about his life and works. The Shakespearean artifacts seemed of little significance compared to the apparent main focus—varied clips of Shakespeare’s works in film. I found the whole “Shakespeare for Dummies” Hollywood theme of the exhibit, if it could be called that, disappointing and also quite insulting. However it would be a fair assessment to say that the management is undoubtedly catering to the thrill-seeking modern culture. With other options such as going to the movies, I’m sure they want to keep the visitors, and the profits, coming. It is sad, though, that it is our actions that give them this impression. It’s no doubt that if Shakespeare could walk out of his grave and see Stratford today, he would go right back.
But it’s a sad day when the birthplace of the most magnificent poet and author in history, who has even shaped the English-speaking world as we know it, is more concerned with fashion shops and eateries than with the extraordinary merit of being Shakespeare’s hometown. Like most of us in our group, I too thought the doors after the first Shakespeare video were going to open upon a museum where we could learn in-depth about his life and works. The Shakespearean artifacts seemed of little significance compared to the apparent main focus—varied clips of Shakespeare’s works in film. I found the whole “Shakespeare for Dummies” Hollywood theme of the exhibit, if it could be called that, disappointing and also quite insulting. However it would be a fair assessment to say that the management is undoubtedly catering to the thrill-seeking modern culture. With other options such as going to the movies, I’m sure they want to keep the visitors, and the profits, coming. It is sad, though, that it is our actions that give them this impression. It’s no doubt that if Shakespeare could walk out of his grave and see Stratford today, he would go right back.
Cambridge University
The tour of Cambridge University, specifically King’s College, gave insight into the British Higher Education system in today’s time as well as in the past. I thought the main benefit of the trip was our knowledgeable 85 year-old tour guide who could get us away form the crowds (and shush them if necessary). In the strikingly magnificent King’s Chapel, I was very interested in the differences in architecture according to which King was financing its construction at the time. Originally started by King Henry VI, he only had the finances to build about two feet up from the foundations. When King Henry VII took over the construction, our tour guide said that the church became less of a religious building and more of an homage to King Henry VII and his family. This made me contemplate the historical connections between religion and wealth.
One of my first reactions of the city Cambridge was to notice the startling numbers of foreign tour groups and families—from hordes of Asians to Fabio. I realized that a number of famous scientists, authors and poets have attended Cambridge over the years, from all over the world, giving it international importance. This is the alma matter of a famous Chinese poet, Watson and Crick, Issac Newton, Patrick Bronte, and Lord Byron. The different colleges within Cambridge like King’s and Trinity seemed like they are based on family status and donations more than anything, though no one mentioned it outright. On the other hand, it seemed ridiculous that the cost of attendance is only 3,000 pounds a year if you are accepted. This was quite depressing because in America people pay 5 times that a semester sometimes to go to a lesser university.
It was interesting to make the connection between the longtime rivals Oxford and Cambridge when learning Cambridge was founded after a riot in the 1200s when students were tried for murder and executed. Along these same lines, the long-held rivalry between the townspeople and the university scholars is seen in our reading of “The Reeve’s Tale” by Chaucer. Chaucer makes both the miller and the Cambridge students swindle and thieve in his tale, though the miller is financially greedier and worldlier than the two pedantic scholars. This describes the two stereotypes that are probably still held today amongst the groups. One of my first reactions of the city Cambridge was to notice the startling numbers of foreign tour groups and families—from hordes of Asians to Fabio. I realized that a number of famous scientists, authors and poets have attended Cambridge over the years, from all over the world, giving it international importance. This is the alma matter of a famous Chinese poet, Watson and Crick, Issac Newton, Patrick Bronte, and Lord Byron.
One of my first reactions of the city Cambridge was to notice the startling numbers of foreign tour groups and families—from hordes of Asians to Fabio. I realized that a number of famous scientists, authors and poets have attended Cambridge over the years, from all over the world, giving it international importance. This is the alma matter of a famous Chinese poet, Watson and Crick, Issac Newton, Patrick Bronte, and Lord Byron. The different colleges within Cambridge like King’s and Trinity seemed like they are based on family status and donations more than anything, though no one mentioned it outright. On the other hand, it seemed ridiculous that the cost of attendance is only 3,000 pounds a year if you are accepted. This was quite depressing because in America people pay 5 times that a semester sometimes to go to a lesser university.
It was interesting to make the connection between the longtime rivals Oxford and Cambridge when learning Cambridge was founded after a riot in the 1200s when students were tried for murder and executed. Along these same lines, the long-held rivalry between the townspeople and the university scholars is seen in our reading of “The Reeve’s Tale” by Chaucer. Chaucer makes both the miller and the Cambridge students swindle and thieve in his tale, though the miller is financially greedier and worldlier than the two pedantic scholars. This describes the two stereotypes that are probably still held today amongst the groups. One of my first reactions of the city Cambridge was to notice the startling numbers of foreign tour groups and families—from hordes of Asians to Fabio. I realized that a number of famous scientists, authors and poets have attended Cambridge over the years, from all over the world, giving it international importance. This is the alma matter of a famous Chinese poet, Watson and Crick, Issac Newton, Patrick Bronte, and Lord Byron.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Southwell Workhouse and Newstead Abbey
Our first stop on Friday to the Southwell Workhouse was extremely thorough, and I now feel I am much more knowledgeable about the socioeconomic state of Britain in the 1830s-40s and the working conditions of the poor. I learned that the establishment of the Poor Law of 1834 aimed at insuring paupers housing and food in exchange for their labor. Though these houses meant to reduce the cost of caring for the poor while providing them with means to live, it was obvious that workhouses were purposefully structured to be a last resort option. Reading a portion of Dickens’ Oliver Twist made me expect a grungy, dilapidated factory building where the poor slept on the bare floor when they weren’t slavishly working. However, our tour guide at Southwell described the conditions to be almost favorable; it honestly made me feel uncomfortable to hear her praise again and again the workhouses. With these conflicts, it seems the workhouses could not wholly fall into the category of good or bad—they were certainly good for the masters of the houses—but must be judged individually. 
I very much enjoyed our next trip to Newstead Abbey, residence of the famous poet Lord Byron. It’s hard to imagine that in the early 1800s, as the poor and homeless were numerous (Byron and his single mother were counted among them,) the rich lived lavishly at Newstead Abbey, located only a few miles from the Southwell Workhouse. This really brought to focus the financial and social gaps between classes in Britain at this time. We learned, too, that Byron was hardly financially able to keep the house since he was a young boy living in Southwell at the time he inherited the house. The curious stories we heard of one Lord’s fascination firing cannons at small wooden boats driven by servants and Byron’s likelihood of having target practice in the great hall of the Abbey made life for the rich seem reckless and for some unfulfilling. It was a stark difference between this and the workhouse—one life was frivolous while the other was tedious and rough —and I think, given a choice (which never would have occurred), I would choose neither.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Haworth and the Bronte Parsonage
Up and out again at 8:30 this morning, our class traveled via mini-coach to Haworth, location of the Bronte Parsonage. Our reading of the novel Wuthering Heights had made me greatly anticipate this trip, so I could learn more about the Bronte family and about the setting in which Emily lived at the time she wrote the novel. We walked through the main town shops of Haworth, past the church that the Brontes attended, and finally reached the Bronte homestead.
The entire atmosphere of Haworth combined with the history of the Brontes, I felt, gave me a better understanding of Emily, Charlotte, and Ann—and they didn’t just skim over the other Brontes as well. I liked that they gave a complete history of their lives, making sure to give the most honest portrayal of the family to dispel the curious buzz that surrounded them for a while after their deaths. My own idea of the sisters as lonely, uneducated but somehow brilliant women was altered after hearing about their childhood education and encouragement by their father, Patrick Bronte. His pushing inspired their perseverance and skill; Patrick Bronte himself stated that if he had been a calm, serene man, his life would have been different and his children would not have been as successful as they were. The graveyard that holds an estimated 66,000 bodies to this day sits directly in front of the house, and the Brontes had to constantly pass this whenever they went out of the house. Personally, I didn’t think much of the graveyard, and I don’t think it would have bothered me. But it made me wonder how the sisters would have been affected when writing their stories—was Emily a true believer in spirits herself, or was the ghostly paranoia in Wuthering Heights only inserted to add ambiguity to the novel?
The moors, though, were the highlight of my trip—the views were extraordinary. I could see miles of endless heath stretching on all sides, dotted every now and then with crammed but still somehow quaint villages. I felt that I could really imagine Catherine and Heathcliff climb out of Wuthering Heights and into the tall grasses tinged with purple flowers where they spent all their lives. I could see too how the moors could become dangerous if a snowstorm or heavy rain happened to fall and how an unfamiliar traveler could get off course and travel for miles in the wrong direction. Using my imagination in this way made me feel particularly more in the mindset of the sisters as they sat down to their quill pens and portable wooden desks to write their famously incredible stories. Logically, though, I tried to find any direct connection between the people Emily knew and the characters in Wuthering Heights. It seems Branwell Bronte’s alcoholism later in life was mirrored in Hindley Earnshaw, and the deaths of parents and young people in the novel Emily would have experience firsthand, but then conceivably she could have been using generalities in both cases, and not basing anything on personal experience. I’d like to imagine the former.
The entire atmosphere of Haworth combined with the history of the Brontes, I felt, gave me a better understanding of Emily, Charlotte, and Ann—and they didn’t just skim over the other Brontes as well. I liked that they gave a complete history of their lives, making sure to give the most honest portrayal of the family to dispel the curious buzz that surrounded them for a while after their deaths. My own idea of the sisters as lonely, uneducated but somehow brilliant women was altered after hearing about their childhood education and encouragement by their father, Patrick Bronte. His pushing inspired their perseverance and skill; Patrick Bronte himself stated that if he had been a calm, serene man, his life would have been different and his children would not have been as successful as they were. The graveyard that holds an estimated 66,000 bodies to this day sits directly in front of the house, and the Brontes had to constantly pass this whenever they went out of the house. Personally, I didn’t think much of the graveyard, and I don’t think it would have bothered me. But it made me wonder how the sisters would have been affected when writing their stories—was Emily a true believer in spirits herself, or was the ghostly paranoia in Wuthering Heights only inserted to add ambiguity to the novel?
The moors, though, were the highlight of my trip—the views were extraordinary. I could see miles of endless heath stretching on all sides, dotted every now and then with crammed but still somehow quaint villages. I felt that I could really imagine Catherine and Heathcliff climb out of Wuthering Heights and into the tall grasses tinged with purple flowers where they spent all their lives. I could see too how the moors could become dangerous if a snowstorm or heavy rain happened to fall and how an unfamiliar traveler could get off course and travel for miles in the wrong direction. Using my imagination in this way made me feel particularly more in the mindset of the sisters as they sat down to their quill pens and portable wooden desks to write their famously incredible stories. Logically, though, I tried to find any direct connection between the people Emily knew and the characters in Wuthering Heights. It seems Branwell Bronte’s alcoholism later in life was mirrored in Hindley Earnshaw, and the deaths of parents and young people in the novel Emily would have experience firsthand, but then conceivably she could have been using generalities in both cases, and not basing anything on personal experience. I’d like to imagine the former.
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Coventry Cathedral and Warwick Castle
After approximately 10 hours of straight travel (and a 2 hour stay in the immigration check at Heathrow) our English 399: British Literary Landscapes group arrived at Harlaxton College in Lincolnshire, England. The informative and interesting tour of Harlaxton complete, our very much sleep-deprived class headed to bed; not a one of us, I think, slept badly. This Wednesday morning we boarded the bus at 8:30 a.m. and set off for Coventry Cathedral and Warwick Castle.Our class first traveled via minibus about two hours to Coventry, in a town for noted its almost complete destruction during WWII , where we visited the standing ruins of a 14th century Cathedral. There is a new and modernized Cathedral beside older one, which we also visited as part of the self-guided tour. The atmosphere was quiet, solemn, and serene in both the modern building and the old. The stained-glass windows were a beautifully stunning feature of the new church, and appropriately in the brochure they are described as a “link between old and new Cathedrals, and a symbol of resurrection.” In effect, these two sites served as a continuous reminder of the destructiveness of war and the parallel Christian theme of forgiveness. The World War II museum underneath the remains was a powerful perspective of the war that provided much insight into the history of the attack as well as the general conditions of wartime. Hearing Wilfred Owen’s poem describing the harrowing affects of war added to the respect I felt for the site and the effectiveness of its anti-war message.
I greatly anticipated our next visit to Warwick Castle, imagining a medieval time capsule rich with history and asking for exploration. In actuality, it is the British version of Disneyland, with a playground, costumed actors, and a full gift shop. This atmosphere made it difficult to even imagine life mid-eleventh century, soon after the arrival of the Normans to Britain. For me, it was heartbreaking to see such a lasting historical structure, once a symbol of enormous wealth and power, degraded to a money-swindling amusement park. The only solace I found, ironically, was on top of Guy’s Tower where I could enjoy the wonderful views, stretching for perhaps hundreds of miles, and in the gaols, the dark and eerie tower dungeon where prisoners were stretched, hung from chains, and left for years, forgotten. These places were the ones that seemed most authentic to medieval times.The difference between the treatment of these two sites by both visitors and the administration comments on the air of inconsistency and conflict of modern humanity. Both sites were medieval structures with historical significance in Britain, where many people for hundreds of years sought solace and protection. The Coventry Cathedral, one of the only surviving structures of the air raid, is a British revered landmark that reminds visitors of human destructiveness and power in the face of it. Warwick Castle, on the other hand, purposefully distracts from any historic relevance in favor of escapism and entertainment with the hopes, undoubtedly, of financial gain. Needless to say, there were much more people at Warwick castle, making me ask why it was okay to sort of shuffle over the lives and history associated with this site but not so with the Coventry. It must be, I think, the closeness of WWII to today’s culture and the fact that there are many alive who experience the war firsthand. It’s too impossible for some to imagine the medieval fortress roaring with life since it was about 900 years ago that it flourished. Indeed, it is quite difficult for me to picture as well. Is the time gap too large for the average person to really understand life in that time, and similarly, what determines how long is too long? Currently, I couldn’t imagine children playing in the ruins of the Cathedral, vendors selling burgers, and men dressed as soldiers with children dressed in miniature gas masks—maybe give it a few hundred years.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)